Ann Mah's newsletter / March 2017
March 2017 newsletter
Bonjour!
I've always felt there are two states of existence – being in Paris, and being out of it – and last month I spent a restful week in the former state, during which time – I am a little embarrassed to say – I hardly did anything at all. I ate a lot of buttered tartines, took a few long walks, wrote very late into the night, and – well, that's it. At times I felt a little guilty, luxuriating in my solitude, but my regular life is so regimented in segments of school drop-off, work, commute, toddler dinner, bath, and bed, grownup dinner, WINE, and bed, that in the end I just surrendered and did nothing. Is it okay to be in Paris and not discover anything new? All I can say is that at the end of the week, I felt completely refreshed and delighted to return to my routine – so, maybe ?
This month I am looking forward to finding spring produce at the Farmer's Market. Asparagus and strawberries are my favorites, and I've been kicking around the idea of a savory-sweet salad that combines both of them. I'm also really REALLY enjoying my new Instant Pot (yes! I got one!), particularly for cooking beans. I have always been the worst, most impatient bean cook, but thanks to the magic of the electric pressure cooker, I can confidently say that we will never eat another hard, gritty bean again. Hoorah!
Here's what else I've been up to...
Where I've been eating
Paris
In recent years, bo bun (a Vietnamese noodle salad) has become a fad among bobos (young professionals) and I enjoyed a delicious version at Le Petit Cambodge. The restaurant has recently reopened after it was targeted in the attacks of November, 2015, and seeing a lunchtime crowd gather here and fill the bright, airy space was a heart-warming experience. They serve a classy bo bun, with rice noodles, lettuce, and a sweet-savory, fish-sauce-laced dressing puddling at the bottom of a deep bowl. Fresh herbs are piled on top, along with chopped peanuts, house-pickled carrots and cabbage, sautéed lemongrass beef, and a chopped nem, which is what the French call cha gio, the delicious crisp-chewy Vietnamese pork spring roll. The result is a delicious mashup of a dish, perfect for lunch (or any time!).
Paris
Sometimes all you want is to go out and drink Champagne. (Right? It's not just me?) Happily, the 9e has a new Champagne wine shop / bar – or "cave dégustation" – a very welcome addition to the neighborhood. L'Extra Brut offers an astonishing array of independently produced bubbles, and a small menu of snacks like cheese and charcuterie. The owner, Bruno, is extremely friendly and knowledgeable – and half American, and happy to explain what you're drinking in English – and this is a fun place to spend an evening with friends. It's also very close to the Gare du Nord, in case you find yourself thirsty before your Eurostar train – what better way to kill time than with a glass of Champagne?! (There is a selection of red and white wines on offer, as well.)
Paris
While all the tourists in the Marais are lining up for falafel sandwiches at L'As du Fallafel – which, for the record, I like, but I don't understand why it attracts such hoards – the locals are quietly queuing a few doors down at Miznon. This outpost of a popular Israeli café has quickly become a hotspot, with its rustic, earthy food. Though the meat-stuffed pitas – like a boeuf bourguignon sandwich, what! – sound delicious, honestly it's the vegetables here that are the real star. In particular, I am thinking of the cauliflower, roasted until meltingly tender, and served either whole – drizzled with olive oil and flaked salt – or broken up and stuffed into a pita sandwich with tahini, hot sauce, cucumber, and tomato. It is addictively good, as are the garlicky green beans, sprinkled with citrus salt. The only negative aspect – and it's considerable – are the jostling crowds elbowing for space, which makes for a very stressful dining experience. Honestly, I got a few grey hairs trying to find a spot to eat – but I'm still dying to go back :)
What I've been reading
–My friend, Christina Baker Kline, author of the runaway bestseller Orphan Train, has a new novel out and it is fabulous. A Piece of the World tells the story of the woman immortalized in Andrew Wyeth’s painting, Christina’s World, and it is "a pure, powerful story," says O magazine. If you're curious about the book, and would like to know more about how it came to be written, Christina also recently published a beautiful essay in the New York Times about her father's sense of adventure and how it continues to inspire her.
–I love French food. But sometimes when I'm in Paris, I want to eat food that's not French. I wrote about six of my favorite non-French dishes at Vogue.com.
–In one of the most thought-provoking articles on France I've read in a long time, New York Times journalist Adam Nossiter visits Albi, in the south of France near Toulouse, to probe the "deep pride felt by the French in what they regard as an unparalleled way of life, always accompanied by anxiety that it is facing extinction."
–If you've ever wondered what goes into opening a tiny New York City restaurant, a new book, Generation Chef by Karen Stabiner, offers a behind-the-scenes glimpse at an East Village boîte. This is a fascinating insider's take on the nitty-gritty of the Big Apple restaurant scene – and it also made me crave pintxos almost constantly. The author was also recently interviewed on KCRW Good Food about the book, with some insights on the treacherous path taken by millennial chefs.
–Have you ever wanted to write for kids? Sesame Street is looking for writers from diverse backgrounds to apply for a fellowship this summer in New York City.
–Speaking of new voices, Elle magazine (UK) has announced details for its Elle annual writing competition, which will focus this year on memoir. The prompt is fantastic – The Outfit I will Never Wear Again – and the essays will be judged by an esteemed panel that includes Lauren Collins, who wrote this wonderful book and whose sharp-elbowed tweets regularly make me laugh.
–There are many legends about (and versions of) fettuccine Alfredo but, in fact, the dish was invented in Rome and contains only pasta, butter, and Parmagiano – no cream! Elizabeth Minchilli dug down for the true story, creating this gem of a video on authentic fettuccine Alfredo – so simple, so lovely, watching it made my whole day.
–A new book by Randy Susan Meyers is always cause for celebration, and her newest novel (out in April) sounds especially riveting, all about Ponzi schemes gone wrong, and what it's like to be married to the perpetrator. It's called The Widow of Wall Street and if you're in a book club, you and your group can win dinner with Randy in your town! Randy is hilarious and thoughtful, and dinner with her would be so much fun. More details here.
A bientôt
As we move between seasons, perhaps this winter-spring butternut squash tabbouleh salad will brighten up your plate until strawberries and asparagus arrive? In the meantime, thanks for reading – and if you were forwarded this newsletter by a friend, please sign up here.
See you next month!
Amitiés,
Ann