Ann Mah's newsletter / April 2017
April 2017 newsletter
Bonjour!
I think many of us have spent the past few months feeling like we've been trapped in the movie "Frozen." But last Sunday, after weeks of futile searching, I finally FINALLY saw furled buds on the bare tree branches here in New York. You guys, spring is here! I haven't worn a coat for the past two days! I'm on the lookout for asparagus and strawberries in the market, but in the meantime, I'm bridging the gap with this vegan Vietnamese noodle salad that's full of fresh mint and cilantro, and suffused with the bright flavors of Southeast Asia. What are you looking forward to eating and cooking this season?
Where I've been eating
New York City
The thing about Carma Asian Tapas is that it's often empty, and so I didn't try it for the longest time. But when my friend, Julie, told me about their exceptional soup dumplings (photo above), I immediately went for lunch. It turns out this place has some of the best xiao long bao I've eaten outside of Din Tai Fung in China – and no surprise, as the menu was actually developed by the Executive Chef of Din Tai Fung in Taipei! I recommend eating here with a dumpling-loving friend, and ordering two baskets of soup dumplings, one pork and one crab. For lighter fare, the Japanese eggplant with spicy garlic sauce is fantastic – succulent spears of aubergine in a fiery sauce – and I also like the spicy celery and smoked tofu. Also recommended is the Taiwanese style beef noodle soup, with thick, chewy, handmade noodles.
New York City
Whizzing up First Avenue in a taxi, I used to wonder why there was always a crowd lingering on the sidewalk at 13th Street. Finally, I ate at Taverna Kyclades and the mystery was solved – this airy restaurant is like a trip to a Greek island. I love the vegge chips – paper-thin slivers of battered eggplant and zucchini that are impossibly crunchy and light. The filet of sole is broiled very simply, the fish tender and delicate, and the spanakopita is a generous rectangle of brittle phyllo dough enclosing creamy spinach. But my favorite thing here is the Greek salad (photo above), which comes piled into a massive bowl to share – a heap of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, olives, and romaine, topped with two Flintstonian slabs of feta cheese. It's healthy and decadent all at the same time.
New York City
I had my doubts, based on no reason at all, but in case you were wondering, the Grand Central Oyster Bar is still good! Eating here a few weeks ago, I was charmed all over again by the vaulted ceilings and checked tablecloths, the enormous horseshoe bar, and news-sheet menu of seafood items. The fried oysters (photo above) were everything a fried oyster should be – hot as blazes with a crunchy cornmeal crust and steamy, salty, delicate interior that pairs beautifully with an ice cold glass of Sancerre. If you're looking for a New York institution, this place can't be beat.
What I've been reading
If you're searching for new cooking inspiration, look no further than Farm to Table Asian Secrets by Patricia Tanumihardja, a wonderful new cookbook filled with Asian recipes for vegan and vegetarian fare that breathe new life into the farm to table philosophy. This book provided the inspiration for these Vietnamese noodle salads, and as spring produce begins to appear in the market, I'm so excited to cook from it more!
It's April, which means there are so many fun new books about France! I'm enjoying Dinner Chez Moi by Elizabeth Bard, which is full of astute cooking tips and great recipes; The New Paris by Lindsey Tramuta celebrates what's new in Paris and "fueling a movement;" and How to Make a French Family by Samantha Vérant is a heartfelt memoir about an American woman and her blended family in the south of France.
Have you ever eaten a jianbing? When I lived in Beijing, the savory, spicy Chinese breakfast crêpe was my favorite street food. Now, thanks to a bevy of carts and storefronts, they're starting to appear in New York – and the New York Times gives the lowdown on the best.
There's much food for thought in this Atlantic essay about travel writing in this post-colonial, Internet age of greater social awareness.
The only time a French person refused to eat the meal I'd prepared was when I made rabbit. This New York Times article begs to differ, and says rabbit is part of the weekly French dinner rotation. Would (or do) you eat it?
I talked with Spine magazine's lovely correspondent Leah Stacy about my writing process and new novel in this interview.
I'm so excited about new novels from new friends! Greer MacAllister has written a rip-roaring tale called Girl in Disguise, all about the first female investigator at the Pinkerton Detective Agency. And Julie Buxbaum's beautiful YA novel, Tell Me Three Things, is now in paperback – “a heartfelt, wryly perceptive account of coming to terms with irrevocable loss when life itself means inevitable change,” says Kirkus. Both would make great Mother's Day presents!
A bientôt
This month I have some fun travel plans, and I'm also excited to share a few new recipes and book giveaways on my blog – you can follow the latest news on Instagram! In the meantime, thanks for reading – and if you were forwarded this newsletter by a friend, please sign up here.
See you in May!
Amitiés,
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