Ann Mah's newsletter / March 2019
March 2019 newsletter
Bonjour!
I had been bracing myself for Paris's usual winter climate (grey, dark, damp), but Mother Nature smiled upon me last month and gave me the gift of ten exquisite, sunny, springlike days. It was the perfect weather for walking and horse-riding (more the latter below) not to mention indulging in Paris's favorite pastime: sitting on a sunny café terrasse. Most Parisians have a favorite café, but I recently met someone who has a favorite café for every season. She rotates them based on the seasonal position of the sun.
I'm back in Washington DC now, and planning several book events in the area – and in April, I'll be traveling to California for a mini book tour. I've included details below and hope you'll join me. I would love to see you!
Here's what else I've been up to –
What I've been eating
I ate out a fair amount in Paris and thought it would be fun to compile a list of where I went, in chronological order. Keep in mind that my meals were mostly work lunches or dinners, and the places were chosen based on location rather than cuisine – so there are some offbeat (and off-the-beaten-path) restaurants here.
1. Mensae
Seasonal, creative (dare I say bobo?) fare in the once-working-class 20e arrondissement. The 36€ menu (entrée, plat, dessert) is meant to keep things reasonable, but wine and supplemental charges add up quick.
2. Le Mistral
If you've read my book Mastering the Art of French Eating, you know how much this café means to me. When I stopped by for a post-dinner drink, I learned that the owner, our friend Didier Miquel, had recently been honored by the city of Paris in recognition of his enduring work to sustain the traditional French bistro. Didier and his brother Alain are like our French family and their café has been a cherished neighborhood institution for decades. I can't think of an establishment in Paris more deserving of this award.
3. Chez Nathalie
Paris is usually about five years behind New York City food trends, so perhaps it's no surprise that poke bowls have arrived on the scene (they pronounce it as one syllable, as in "poke you with a sharp stick"). I opted instead for seared tuna and vegetables, light and healthy. This place is a good option if you're looking for a restaurant in the far-flung 13e that's open on a Monday.
4. Umami Matcha Café
Excellent location near République, but again with the poke bowls! I had some Japanese miso beef stew over rice, very cozy and comfort food-y. The matcha drinks looked scrumptious.
5. Le Select
Still a grande dame of Montparnasse and the perfect café to travel back in time. I can't vouch for the food but the chocolat chaud was delicious and we even spotted a minor celebrity.
6. Arnaud Nicolas
This guy is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France in charcuterie and, indeed, his terrines, pâtés, and cured meats are divine. I enjoyed what was possibly the best pâté de campagne I've ever tasted. I'm also still dreaming about the ham.
7. Café de Mars
A favorite spot in my neighborhood, creative food and an excellent, reasonable lunch menu.
8. Roger la Grenouille
A Left Bank institution, now under new ownership. The menu, which is heavy on bistro classics, isn't taking any risks, but the kitchen prepares everything faultlessly. I had some excellent steak tartare.
What I've been reading
–My food and travel memoir Mastering the Art of French Eating is on sale for $1.99 across all e-book platforms! Find out how I got started in Paris, and all the ups, downs, and delicious discoveries along the way. If you've read the book, please tell a friend! Sale ends March 10. Find your copy here.
–I love the "apéro dînatoire," the French style of casual entertaining, which is basically an evening of snacks, and I'm so excited about my friend Marie's new book, French Appetizers, full of perfect recipes to host chic little soirées. I can't wait to try the savory palmiers, savory sablés, and the savory caramelized fennel, lemon, and Comté cake.
–I can't stop cooking this simple pureed carrot soup, potage à la Crécy. The secret ingredient is a handful of arborio rice, which adds a rich, creamy body when the soup is pureed. Of course you can make this on the stove top, but I've been using my Instant Pot – just five minutes under pressure!
–If, like me, you've been too busy (ahem, lazy) to sign up for Global Entry, I have an amazing tip for you. If you download the "Mobile Passport App" to your phone, you can use it to skip the general passport queue at your port of entry and use a special, designated line. I used it on my return from Paris and sailed through passport control in about 10 minutes. The app works at 25 US airports, and you can read more about it here.
Finally, I'm so excited to be hitting the road for several book events this spring! I'd love to meet you and chat about books, travel, wine, and more. Information follows below – please join me!
–Tuesday March 12 I'm delighted to be "in conversation" with Ellen Crosby, author of the Virginia wine country mystery series. The event is at by Bards Alley bookshop in Vienna, VA. and will feature a wine tasting. More details here.
–Tuesday March 19, I'm honored to speak at my local Washington DC library, the Cleveland Park Library, with Amy Henderson, historian emerita of the National Portrait Gallery. More details here.
–Wednesday, April 3, I'll be reprising my conversation with Christian Holthausen of the Champagne house, AR Lenoble to talk about The Lost Vintage and the legacy and future of French winemaking. There will also be a Champagne tasting. Join us at One More Page in Arlington, VA. More details tk.
–Saturday, April 6, I'll be appearing at Literary Orange in a book festival in Newport Beach, CA. More details here.
–Sunday, April 7, I'll be presenting The Lost Vintage at Laguna Beach Books in Laguna Beach, CA. More details here.
–Thursday, April 11, I'm honored to be speaking at Omnivore Books in San Francisco, CA. More details tk.
A bientôt!
Several of you asked about my recent horse-riding adventure in the Bois de Boulogne. I organized it through Horse in the City, which offers custom horse rides in several locations in Paris (including Versailles, which sounds especially magnificent). I had never been on a horse before, but the owner, Baptiste, was a wonderful teacher and he soon had me trotting and galloping...! The entire experience was exhilarating and one of the best things I've ever done period, let alone in Paris. Now I want to take riding lessons!
Have a wonderful month and see you in April –
Amitiés,
Ann